Riding the Wave
So you’ve mastered the art of standing up on a surfboard, now what? How do you ride the wave, change positions, and maybe even “hit the lip” or “hang 10?” The art of changing positions on a surfboard is a skill that you will learn, the more you practice it. You will also find that positioning is also a matter of technique. For the most part, this ability takes a good deal of balance and requires you to distribute your weight on the board correctly as you ride a wave. Your position on the board, and your ability to adjust positions to get your board to do what you want it to, is absolutely vital to your success as a surfer.
Take the
first few seconds on the wave to situate yourself on the board in the manner
that feels most comfortable. One foot—usually the weaker leg—will be in front
of the other. This is because your upper body and your stronger leg do most of
the work as you’re riding the wave. If your right leg is back, it means you are
regular footed. If you are regular footed, then going right on the wave means
you are riding the wave front side and going left on the wave means you are
riding back side. If your left leg is back on the board it means you are goofy
footed and going left on the wave is your front side and going right is your
back side. In either case, riding front side will be easier and come more
naturally to you because you are able to see in front of you. When you ride
back side, you are looking at the wave and have a smaller range of vision.
Since one
foot is in front of the other, your body will be facing one direction, but you
should always look forward in the direction you want to go on the wave. Your
direction on the wave should not be straight to shore. It should be at a slight
angle to the left or right, depending on which direction the wave is breaking.
You should be in a crouched position with your knees slightly bent. Do not
stand upright.
As you
continue along the wave, use your arms to aid your balance and movement on the
board. Your upper body and arm movements will be more dramatic on a short board
because you will be using more of that momentum to turn your board one way or
the other. Also, your position on a short board will be more consistent than
your position on a long board. That is because you have less surface area to
work with. On a short board, your feet should stay planted on the board. If you
want to speed up, you should make a bottom turn or pump your board forward on
the wave. To slow down or stop, apply weight on your back foot. On a long board
you can cross-step forward and backward to speed up or slow down.